I haven't been to Israel/the Holy Land but I've been to Stonehenge. The first time I saw it, it was simply THERE. No touristy trappings (or WAY fewer), you could TOUCH the stones. The second visit - the stones were inaccessible - apparently people just couldn't resist graffiti-ing. SUCH a shame. And oh my - the tourist trappings were everywhere. I wound up visiting a site in Amesbury instead.